찌게! (Jjigae)

Perhaps you're like me, a single guy living alone in Korea on a tight budget. The supermarket is stocked stocked full of things you can't pronounce, let alone identify, and the microwave burritos that powered you through college are only available across town at $5 each. You're hungry, and you've just discovered that it is really unpleasant to eat 삼겹살 (samgyeobsal) for breakfast.

Go native. When in Rome, eat Romans.

찌개 (jjigae) is a staple of the Korean diet, from family dinners, to soldiers in the field, to starving college students. It's cheap, easy to make, hard to screw up, and the variety is only limited by the size of your local supermarket. You can make it vegan, or add seafood or whatever meat you happen to have around. It's pretty healthy, but it is very high in sodium.

It's a stew, so all you need is room to chop vegetables, a pot, and a stove. It is pretty strong, so if you're roommates (or neighbors) aren't Korean you may want to exercise a bit of caution preparing it. And of course, as every Korean meal requires a side of kimchi, which can pose problems with any non-Korean roommates with functional sinuses. Korean food is not a taste everyone has acquired, so try to be polite. A strong 찌개 (jjigae) frightened my mother off of Korean food for about ten years.

The following are the John-proofed 된장찌개 (doenjangjjigae) cooking instructions given to me by my girlfriend. Feel free to alter to taste, but there are a few core ingredients that define a 찌개.

i) 된장 (doenjang)

Ever wonder how they make soy sauce? They mash soybeans up into a sticky mess, then stick it in a pot under the sun for much longer than you really want to know. The oil rises up and is skimmed off of the top to make soy sauce. What's left is basically Japanese miso. Koreans never went for that Japanese crap, so they leave it in the pot for a bit longer. Generations pass, empires rise and fall, and eventually specially trained archeologists unearth the paste. This is 된장 (doenjang), the base, and exactly what your fraternity brothers don't want to have stinking up the fridge.

In Korea, it is very easy to find. If you know a big Korean family very well, they will probably be very happy to provide you some good, handmade stuff they picked up from a trip to the country. Probably in a quantity far greater than you need. Emphasize the "little bit" part. You'll probably walk away with kimchi too, but you needed that anyways. You ALWAYS need more kimchi.

Out of Korea, it may be more difficult. If there's a Koreatown, that's your best supplier. Every fairly big town has one asian market, and they should carry it. Large supermarkets may have it in the "ethnic foods" section.

If you really can't find it nearby, you can even order it Online. In 14 kg boxes, a quantity which may earn you a place on the terrorist watch list. It's not really a perishable ingredient, so I doubt you'll have trouble with shipping it.

ii) 호박 (hobak), or squash

It's not 된장찌개 (doenjangjjigae) without 호박 (hobak). They usually use a particular kind of squash, the long zucchini-ish kind they have in the Korean markets. In a pinch, though, any squash will do. I had good luck with an Acorn squash in the US.

This is a cheap ingredient in the summer, I just picked up three for 1,000W (about a dollar) down the street. Which is far more 호박 (hobak) than I could possibly use.

iii) Vegetables: 양파 (yangpa, onions), 파 (pa, green onions or leeks), 감자 (gamja, potatoes)

These are the basic ingredients I always use, and are pretty much the core ingredients of authentic 된장찌개 (doenjangjjigae). Feel free to add or subtract based on taste and availability. I think the potatoes are pretty important, its what makes my 찌개 really filling. Onions and leeks are very important to the Korean taste as well. If you're not fond of them, you can just go light on them. Mushrooms are great, too. If you're in Korea, there are a lot of cheap, excellent varieties of mushrooms available in the markets that you should definitely try out.

iv) Seasoning: 마늘 (maneul, garlic)

I say, lay it on heavy, but then I really love garlic. You should use pressed or minced garlic. I usually buy packages of minced garlic at the local supermarket, it's cheap and can keep you for a long time. I've forgotten this several times, and in my opinion it really doesn't taste right without it.

I've heard Koreans recommend salt and sugar. The 된장 is already pretty salty, though, so exercise caution. Particularly if you have high blood pressure. As for sugar, younger Koreans like a lot of sweet with their spicy, but it's not my taste, and it's not the traditional taste. Also, you can experiment with fish stock.

v) Other stuff

I haven't done enough experimentation to make any real recommendations here, but the sky is the limit. I usually drop in some 두부 (dubu, or tofu) for cheap protein. Most Koreans add anchovies or whitebait, or shellfish like small clams. Add 김치 (kimchi) for 김치찌개 (kimchijjigae). I've had 김치찌개 (jjigae) with scraps of 목살 (moksal, pork neck) tossed in and it was great.

How to prepare:

  1. Chop vegetables. You want big chunks. Not so big that it will take a long time to cook, but bigger than the 500 won coin these ingredients cost you.
  2. Boil water. You're a big boy, you can handle it. This is a stew rather than a soup, so after all of the ingredients have been added they should be roughly level with the water line.
  3. Once the water is boiling, add the 된장 (doenjang). One hungry man's serving takes about one large tablespoon. Add more or less to taste. If necessary you can dilute it with more water. Stir it around until there aren't any clumps. This may take some doing, so look carefully.
  4. Add potatoes, and other ingredients that cook slowly.
  5. Once the potatoes are half-cooked, add the other ingredients. Hold back the tofu if you're using it.
  6. Once the ingredients are almost done, and the squash is almost at the consistency you like it, add the tofu. Let it cook for a few more minutes, then take it off and serve.

Koreans always eat it with rice. For good reason, especially if you cooked it up strong. 김치 (kimchi) is a necessary side dish. Otherwise, whatever Korean or other side dishes you like are probably great (although subtle flavors will be overwhelmed by proximity).

Koreans usually place the 찌개 (jjigae) pot in the center of the table and let everyone eat out of it at once. This doesn't seem completely sanitary, so if you happen to be sick you should only eat this alone (although I suspect that a hot 찌개 (jjigae) is capable of killing most pathogens).

I like to do the 아저씨 (ajeoshi, older man) thing and mix it with my rice, but this is considered very rude if you're sharing the pot with others. Dipping a spoonful of rice into the pot is likewise poor manners. With a little practice you can get the knack of taking a spoonful of 찌개 (jjigae), then scooping up some rice from your bowl. This is sometimes frowned upon as well, so you should watch your tablemates to see what the limits of politeness are. Monkey-see, monkey-do.

When I served this to my family in the US, I ladled it into little soup cups. This is guaranteed to put any Koreans on the floor laughing, but this may help put your foreigner friends at ease.

The 찌개 (jjigae) will keep for a bit. I usually make a big pot so I have enough for breakfast the next day. Just be careful to boil it periodically, add water as needed, and don't leave it longer than a day. It's life span is also dependent on the ingredients, so please exercise caution. I've spent three days in a Korean hospital with food poisoning (non-찌개 related). Play it safe.

And come back later for up-to-the-minute 찌개 (jjigae) related news!

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